I glance back at the Rwandan border, it is only few hundred metres away and yet it is a different world. I turn my attention back to the post-apocalyptic scene this side of the border. Ruinous streets still marred by the lava flows which had engulfed and destroyed the city 10 years past, people warming hands over oil drum fires, vast refugee camps, the involuntary flinch at the passing of an endless stream of military convoys. It is a country with a notorious reputation, and one with an irresistible draw – Virunga national park. I took one step, and then another into the bleakness and willed myself forward into the heart of darkness. The adventure starts HERE.